Finding Secret Coves Along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Why the quiet coves are the ones you climb down to

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path runs for 186 miles between Amroth and St Dogmaels, and most walkers stick to the well-trodden stretches between the famous beaches. That is entirely understandable — Barafundle and Whitesands deserve their reputation. But the coastline in between hides something better: small coves where the only way in is a steep flight of steps, a narrow fisherman's track, or a scramble down a boulder gully with both hands free.

These are the places that turn an ordinary afternoon into a proper micro-adventure. You do not need a full day, expensive kit or a long drive. You need a map, a tide table, and the willingness to descend a slope that looks slightly steeper than you would like.

Timing your visit with the tide, not the clock

This is the single most useful skill for cove hunting, and it costs nothing to learn. A cove that is nothing but wet boulders at high water can open into fifty metres of flat sand two hours later. The difference between a frustrating scramble and a private beach is usually about ninety minutes.

Aim to arrive at the top of the descent roughly two hours before low water. That gives you a comfortable window to get down, explore, and climb back out without rushing. If you can stretch it to three hours either side, even better — but always leave a margin. Swell lingers after the wind drops, and a cove that felt calm on the way in can be washing around the base of the steps sooner than you expect.

Check the tide times for the nearest standard port rather than a general online summary, and write them on paper. Phone signal vanishes in most of these inlets. Also check the wind direction: a cove sheltered from a south-westerly can funnel a northerly straight into your face, and the walk back up feels twice as long when it does.

Four coves worth the descent

• Traeth Llyfn, near Abereiddi — reached by a metal staircase bolted to the cliff. Two sandy bays separated by a rocky rib; at low water they often join into one long stretch. The steps are sound but exposed, so keep one hand on the rail.
• Porthmelgan, north of Whitesands — a twenty-minute walk along the clifftop, then a sandy path down. Sheltered and often almost empty. The currents at the northern end are stronger than they look, so swim near the southern side.
• Caerfai, south of St Davids — the steps are steep and can be slippery after rain, but the reward is red sandstone, clear water and rock pools that keep children occupied for hours.
• Ceibwr Bay, near Moylegrove — shingle rather than sand, with a narrow inlet and folded rock strata that geologists travel for. Best in calm conditions; the mouth catches swell from the north.

Getting down — and back up — safely

Descents are where most minor incidents happen, and they nearly always involve tired legs on the way back. A few habits make a real difference:

• Keep your hands free. A rucksack with a chest strap beats a shoulder bag every time.
• Face the rock and climb down backwards on the steeper sections — it feels slower but it is far more stable.
• Wet rock, especially the dark, algae-covered kind, is genuinely treacherous. Test each foothold before committing weight.
• Turn around at the top and look at the route you will need to retrace. Landmarks look completely different from below.
• If the final section looks beyond you, stop. There is always another cove along the path.

Woodland approaches and the quieter return leg

Some of the best access routes come through woodland rather than over open cliff. The wooded valleys behind a few of the larger shingle bays give you a shaded, sheltered approach that is gentler on the knees and usually quieter than the cliff path. These are also the spots to head for when the wind is up, since trees break the worst of it.

Wherever you descend, plan the return before you start. Walking back along the clifftop at dusk is far harder than the outward leg in daylight, and the path edges are not always obvious. Carry a small head torch even in midsummer, and tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back.

What to carry for a half-day micro-adventure

• A paper tide table and a 1:25,000 map in a waterproof case.
• Water and a proper snack — the climb back out burns more than you think.
• A windproof layer, even on a warm day. Coastal inlets are noticeably colder than the car park.
• A dry bag for phones and a spare layer, because spray and damp rock get into everything.
• A basic first aid kit with plasters and tape for grazed hands.
• Footwear with grip. Trainers will do on dry steps; smooth soles will not.

Finally, treat these places as the privilege they are. Take everything home, keep to the paths where erosion is already a problem, and leave the wildflowers and the nesting birds alone. The reason these coves still feel secret is that the people who found them first kept them that way.